Welcome to Cambodia! A drastic change from Laos for the conspicuous absence of rice paddies and a sudden abundance of wild birds (on our first day we spot malachite-winged kingfishers, two owls, an eagle and flocks of little brown jobs). It becomes clear to us that the welcome flourish of wilderness is mostly a by-product of the ever-present threat of unexploded landmines, which keeps both the farmers and boys with ketties at bay. No running off into the bushes for us when nature calls!