Paddling around the magical Malay island of Perhentian Kecil revealed deserted beaches, schools of tropical fish, waving palm trees and the horror of barges of garbage anchored offshore. Water pollution and inadequate garbage disposal are only some of the headaches these small and overrun islands are facing.

After a two-day island-getaway and an overdose of other backpackers, who, like us, are hunting after paradise, we hopped back on our bikes, revelling in the freedom from the beaten track - even if at times it is daunting to bike into a foreign town late at night, not having any guide book reference to whether there is a bed for rent in the town and which dark alleys to avoid. We are learning as we go to trust that whatever happens is the right thing to happen...